Logged Experience - Climbing
The NZMGA needs to see a solid base of personal mountaineering skills, knowledge and experience from guide candidates. To apply for a place on the Climb Guide Pathway, Applicants must present for consideration to the NZMGA Training Officer (TO) a mountaineering Logbook covering a minimum of three seasons’ active mountaineering in both winter and summer. This is to set a solid base of personal mountaineering skills, knowledge and experience from which to launch a guides training pathway.
The Logbook should exceed the following minimum international standard:
Mixed Snow/ice Routes
These routes must be serious alpine undertakings with you in a leadership or shared leadership role. Descent is preferably by another route and not a continuous rap descent. Logbooks should show dates and partners (contact addresses may be required for verification). Some overseas routes are acceptable.
Minimum of 10 mixed snow/ice routes to include:
- At least five Aoraki Mt Cook seriousness grade III;
- At least five Aoraki Mt Cook seriousness grade IV or higher;
- At least two of the grade IVs must have a technical grade of 5 or higher.
- Ascents of major NZ peaks, at least five of which must be over 3000m;
- Some of the routes should have height gains of at least 800m.
- North Ridge Aoraki/Mount Cook (V, 4+);
- East Ridge Aoraki/Mount Cook (V, 3+);
- Central Gully, Douglas Peak (IV, 5);
- East Face Walter (IV, 5);
- North Shoulder Tasman (IV, 3);
Alpine Rock Routes
- Crux Grade at least 13 Ewbank;
- Approx 10 pitches (a ‘pitch’ is not necessarily a rope length) or around 250 m vertical;
- Routes can be climbed either in mountain boots or a combination of mountain boots and rock shoes and must be protected in part by traditional protection;
- Routes must be of ‘alpine’ character in mountainous terrain and/or on glaciers.
- Moir’s Mate, North Buttress of Sabre, etc. The Darrans;
- ‘DB’Eh’, etc. The Remarkables;
- ‘Butterfly Buttress’ etc. South Temple;
- Ben Ohau Range, including Twin Stream;
- ‘Moonshine Buttress’, ‘Kahu’, etc. Fox Neve etc;
- Balfour Glacier routes;
- Temple Buttress, Arthurs Pass.
- Black Peak, Wye Creek and Bush Stream;
- ‘Friday’s Fool’, etc. The Remarkables;
- Temple Basin, Arthurs Pass;
- Barnicoat, Mallory etc. Fox Neve;
- Tukino, Ruapehu;
- Homer Tunnel region etc., The Darrans.
- 'Ravages of Time', etc. Chinaman’s Bluff;
- Mt Somers;
- Long Beach/Lovers Leap;
- North Wye;
- Central North Island;
- Overseas eg Arapiles AUS, Yosemite US.