7 days 11 - 17 Nov 2019

This guides' training course is to take solid amateur mountaineering skills and knowledge and teach the candidate how to change/modify techniques, skills and knowledge into professional mountain and ski guiding techniques, skills and knowledge.

Note: From 1 October 2015 the Snow and Ice Guide Training Course will become a seven (7) day course and include a 1-day River Crossing Course.


  • Crevasse rescue with dynamic rope
  • Glacier travel with client(s)
  • Snow and Ice guiding anchors; equalization; belay techniques, appropriate application of.
  • Shortroping 1, 2 and 3 clients on snow
  • Short pitching/pitching on snow
  • Cramponing equipment including ice axe/hammer
  • Step cutting/stance making
  • Snow and ice climbing technique
  • Hut management, cooking, hygiene
  • Trip planning
  • Client safety in the alpine environment/personal safety
  • Emergency procedures/issues for alpine environment
  • Mountain weather
  • Navigation and route planning
  • Application of guiding technique and decision making
  • Impromptu Formal Lecture Presentation

General assessment of the candidate's overall mountaineering skills will be done. A positive recommendation for their particular pathway is required for the candidate to be able to progress to their appropriate Level 1 guides course.

  • Barron Saddle
  • Fox Glacier area
  • Franz Josef Glacier area
  • Tasman Saddle area
  • Plateau area
  • Bonar Glacier area

Crevasse Rescue With Dynamic Rope

  • Unassisted Prusik
  • Holding the Fall/Slide
  • Drop loop assisted hoist
  • Drop loop unassisted
  • Non drop loop hoist eg 6:1

Glacier Travel With Client(s)

  • Guide - how much rope to carry
  • Appropriateness of coils
  • Tying off coils
  • Knots in rope
  • Client brief and communications

Snow & Ice Guiding Anchors

  • Fast equilisation methods
  • Belay techniques
  • Appropriate application

Shortroping 1, 2 & 3 Clients On Snow

  • Guide on end of rope - inline method
  • Guide on end of rope - independent 'V' method
  • Guide in middle of rope
  • Hand wrap
  • Figure 8 handle
  • Disappearing handle
  • Using cow's tail/daisy chain and clipping into figure 8 for glacier shortroping

Short Pitching/Pitching On Snow & Ice

Equipment For Guiding

  • Snow stakes
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe/hammer

Step Cutting & Route Preparation

  • Single line up and down
  • Double cut up and down
  • Stance making
  • Step plugging, reinforced steps, steps the night before

Snow & Ice Climbing Technique

  • French technique considerations when guiding, especially short roping

Hut Management

  • Working around other users
  • Cooking & presentation standards
  • Hygiene

Trip Planning

Client Safety In The Alpine Environment

Personal Safety

Communication With Client

  • Client equipment checklists
  • Guide equipment checklists
  • Briefings
  • Encouragement, being assertive when appropriate eg retreat

Emergency Procedures

  • Communication device options - strengths and weaknesses
  • Issues for alpine environment eg weather
  • Shelters & bivouacs

Mountain Weather

  • Theory
  • Field observations
  • Expected level of knowledge/understanding for a guide


  • Efficient use of map and compass
  • Use of GPS for guiding
  • Navigation plan
  • Route Planning

Application Of Guiding Techniques

  • Decision making

Snow and Ice Guide Training Course Photos

Centennial Hut (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:13 PM

Centennial Hut (Photo: NZMGA)

Chancellor Hut (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:19 PM

Chancellor Hut (Photo: NZMGA)

Guiding on the Rudolf Glacier (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:27 PM

Guiding on the Rudolf Glacier (Photo: NZMGA)

Hut Life Skills (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:33 PM

Hut Life Skills (Photo: NZMGA)

Mount Tasman (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:44 PM

Mount Tasman (Photo: NZMGA)

Prussiking Practice (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:52 PM

Prussiking Practice (Photo: NZMGA)

Short-roping on the Rudolf Glacier (Photo: NZMGA)

Wednesday, 25 July 2018 at 9:41:56 PM

Short-roping on the Rudolf Glacier (Photo: NZMGA)